sohla el-waylly helps you conquer cooking and we’re both so out on how unprepared we felt for post-birth recovery

I first discovered

Sohla El-Waylly

in the early days of the pandemic, when Bon Appétit Test Kitchen videos were all the rage. She was by far my favorite contributor to that series, and now that she’s promoting her own cookbook and recently became a mom, this was the perfect time to catch up with her.

So today, we talk a bit about “Start Here,” the A to Z guide that took Sohla 3 years to write. She also shares her go-to meal when she doesn’t feel like cooking – and at the bottom of this post, you’ll find a chicken soup + masa dumplings recipe from her new book.

But we actually spend more time talking about the ups and downs of new mom life: balancing work and parenthood, sharing childcare with a partner, and the unpleasant realities of post-birth recovery that both of us felt woefully unprepared for. (Why don’t they tell you about this stuff?)

We also get into:

• What it’s been like to bring a baby and a 500-page book into the world almost simultaneously

• How she prepared for postpartum mental health challenges 

• Lies we were told about breastfeeding and postpartum weight loss

• The toy her 5-month-old is obsessed with, that Cash was also obsessed with

• Family members buying impractical baby clothes (buttons… in the back?)

• Discovering free stuff to do with kids in New York

• Her forthcoming podcast

• Her egg, steamed rice, and greens recipe 

Links: 

• Fisher-Price Kick & Play mat

• John Legend performing the Kick & Play “purple monkey” song (IYKYK)

• GAP vintage soft classic jogger pant

• Magnetic Me onesies

• Sohla’s History Channel TV show, Ancient Recipes

• Sohla’s New York Times bylines

• Her newsletter, Hot Dish

• Sohla’s book: Start Here: Instructions for Becoming a Better Cook

• Her book tour dates

Plus, she’s sharing the recipe for the Chicken Soup with Masa Dumplings from her new book! AKA chicken soup with corny-flavored gnocchi. I cannot wait to make this!

Chicken Soup with Masa Dumplings

serves 4

cook time: active ~15 minutes, total ~50 minutes

This recipe is based off a classic Mexican dumpling called chochoyotes, where the masa harina is mixed with water and fat before simmering in broth. The dumplings thicken the soup as they cook up tender and flavorful. You can also simmer them in water and sauté them just like gnocchi. Once you’ve got your hands on masa harina, try swapping it in for half the wheat flour in baked goods for a boost of corny flavor.

for the chicken:

• 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 12 ounces/350 grams total), cut into 1⁄2- to 1-inch pieces

• 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt

• 1 teaspoon sugar

for the soup:

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 1 medium jalapeño, finely chopped (seeds removed if you want)

• 1 medium yellow or white onion, finely chopped

• 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped

• kosher salt

• 1 medium bunch kale, stemmed and roughly chopped

• 2 quarts high-quality chicken bone broth, store-bought or homemade

• 1 1⁄2 cups cooked black beans, home-cooked or from one 15-ounce can

• 2 bay leaves

• 1⁄2 teaspoon dried oregano

• for the dumplings:

• 1 1⁄2 cups (180 grams) masa harina

• 1 1⁄4 cups boiling water

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

• 1 tablespoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt

Season the chicken: In a medium bowl, toss the chicken breasts with the salt and sugar and let sit in the fridge.

Make the soup: Heat a large Dutch oven or large pot over medium heat. Add the butter, jalapeño, onion, garlic, and a big pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender and translucent, 3 to 5 minutes.

Add the kale and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and darkened, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the bone broth, beans, bay leaves, oregano, and kosher salt and bring to a simmer over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook until the kale is silky and tender, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the masa dumplings: In a medium bowl, combine masa harina, boiling water, melted butter, and salt and mix well with a rubber spatula. Once everything is evenly combined, knead with your hands until the mixture comes together into a smooth ball.

With a #60 scoop (or two spoons), scoop the dumpling dough into generous 1-tablespoon portions onto a sheet pan or large plate. With wet hands, roll each dumpling into a smooth ball. Use a chopstick to press a divot into each dumpling (this helps them cook evenly).

Taste the soup and add more salt if needed. Gently add all the dumplings to the simmering soup. Cover, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and cook for 10 minutes.

Add the chicken and simmer, stirring gently to distribute the heat, until cooked through, about 5 minutes.

Ladle the soup into bowls and serve with cilantro, white onion, sour cream, avocado, and lime wedges.