hiking 40 miles in 3 days taught me what i really need from a vacation
a photo journal from our trip to Patagonia
This post is sponsored by elsewhere.io, a sustainable travel company that I’m grateful to have now traveled with twice! “Sustainable travel” can be kind of buzz wordy so here’s what it means here: elsewhere employs local travel experts, books locally owned hotels wherever possible, and offsets the carbon footprint of all of their travelers (including international flights) using the UNFCCC Carbon Offset Platform.
At the end of February, my husband, George, and I checked off the trip that’s been at the very top of my bucket list for years: Patagonia. And I feel like I finally unlocked what really recharges me during a vacation, at this point in my life, as a working mom to three (and a half…) kids.
When I think about *recharging* and resting on a vacation, I tend to picture myself on a beach, margarita in one hand, book in the other — basically, horizontal for five days straight other than quick dips into the closest body of water. But now that I have (small) kids, a “plop” vacation as I call it — where you pack your bag in the morning and plop by the pool or beach all day — is actually really lovely and enjoyable with the kids. Sure, it’s a margarita in one hand and a baby/pool toy/swim diaper in the other, and your kid is spilling half of your margarita before you can even take a sip, but I still truthfully find it very restful and fun. And we can schedule kids camp or local sitters for a few hours in order to plop, kid-free, within a family trip.
So my priorities have changed a bit when it comes to what I’m looking for in a child-free vacation. What I’m looking for now is true adventure. Long hikes. Glacier plunges. Immersing myself in brand-new-to-me cuisine and culture. Long airplane rides with multiple connections that I would never attempt with small children, that transport me a world away. Basically, I’m looking to rest and recharge by not resting, per se, but by seeing and doing and living large and far outside of my regular day-to-day life.
Enter: Elsewhere.
I’m so grateful to have worked with Elsewhere.io again (they also planned my San Sebastian + Camino de Santiago trip!) to plan and execute this trip. Elsewhere is a Lonely Planet-owned travel company that connects you with a local expert who has their finger on the pulse of what’s new and what’s hidden, and has the personal connections to make anything you want out of your trip (and honestly, experiences you don’t even know are possible) happen.
We had a very short amount of time for a Patagonia trip — most of the other travelers we met were there for at least 15 days, and we only had 8 days in-country — but our Elsewhere expert assured us that they could make magic happen and pack in our must-haves, which were: having unique local food experiences and exploring as much Patagonia as possible without spending too much time traveling.
Here’s our full itinerary, and below is a little photo journal of our favorite moments to help illustrate the magic that words on an itinerary can become.
Cooking with Santiago locals in their home. This Elsewhere-exclusive experience was a trip highlight for both of us. Chile experienced a huge culture shift during and following their military dictatorship from 1973 to 1990 that resulted in, according to our hosts, many authentic Chilean recipes and styles of cuisine being lost. They might still be cooked in households, but they’re not represented at large in Chilean restaurants, which are largely Americanized. We learned so much about our hosts’ time living during the dictatorship, the cuisine they were raised on, and how they keep Chilean food traditions alive in their home.
Explora Salto Chico was the most unique, special hotel we have ever stayed in. Our room overlooked a massive waterfall! The spa was perched on a glacial lake that you could cold plunge into, and then run back into the hot tub.
Every night, you sit around in a Jenni Kayne showroom-esque lounge, being served cocktails and apps, while the most incredible outdoors guides mill around and help you plan your following day’s activities. “Do you want to hike all day? Half day? How about a horseback ride? You took a huge hike today, how about a short hike to a gaucho barbecue on top of a mountain?” Every second there was magic.
We hiked the French Valley on our first full day in Patagonia and I don’t think I stopped smiling once!
We hiked Alto Toro on our second day, traversing glacial lagoons and beautiful mountain meadows.
Hiking to a lake and jumping on a boat that took us up close and personal to the Grey Glacier was a very, very special day.
We moved from the chic Scandinavian minimalist Explora Hotel to the cozy, warm, inviting Estancia Cerro Guido.
Totally different vibe — loved learning about gaucho culture, how sheep farming was introduced to Patagonia, and about the entire process of sheep farming and shearing.
Speaking of sheep — getting stuck in a traffic jam on a hike while 9,000 sheep were herded past by sheep dogs is something I’ll never forget.
Also something I’ll never forget: the food at Estancia Cerro Guido. I will not be surprised if we see their name pop up on the Michelin Guide in the next few years. Stunning, thoughtful, story-telling cuisine in the absolute middle of nowhere!
Every single moment of this trip was so full, so rich, so exciting. Although we weren’t resting in the traditional sense, it recharged us more than any beach or spa vacation could have.
What’s number one on your travel bucket list?! Italy is at the top of George’s. I am itching to take Mattis and Calum on an African safari when they’re a couple years older, like 9 and 7?? A safari is not on the top of George’s list, so it could be a good one for me to do solo with the big boys. But then Cashel will be 5, so does he get invited?! And then I’ll have a 2 year old at home… oh boy! Let the games begin!
Here’s the outfit that kept me comfortable during 40 miles of hiking over the course of 3 days (while 19 weeks pregnant):
To preface, we were in Patagonia during their summer (the average daily temp was in the 50s) so I didn’t need to pack a huge puffer or heavy pants. It also didn't rain while we were there, so I didn't use my rain gear once, though I always kept a jacket and pants in our backpack just in case.
I wore and would highly recommend a lightweight puffer with a HOOD! I wore the hood tightened around my face a lot and was so happy I had it.
A quick-drying long-sleeve shirt was perfect beneath the puffer.
Hiking poles really are so helpful for long treks!
I hiked in leggings (with pockets duh) versus hardcore hiking pants and was very happy I did. I'm just more comfortable in them!
Wool socks are a total necessity. Your feet will sweat while hiking strenuously, and then you'll get cold if wearing cotton socks. This happened to me when I went cotton one day!
Waterproof hiking shoes are also mandatory.
I don't do wool underwear. I love these high-rise cotton underwear under leggings — I normally LOATHE underwear under leggings but these did not rise up!
A lot of people swear by wool sports bras (because you sweat even though you're cold, and wool dries faster so that you don't get chilly!), but I didn't want to buy one just for this trip and I didn't feel I needed it at all. But if you're a super sweaty person, that's definitely a good idea.
I always wore my fave tinted sunscreen, which was the only "makeup" I wore the entire trip — it kept me from getting sunburnt on days when some of my fellow hikers did! Just because it's cold AF doesn't mean the sun ain't shinin'!! I wear "Ocean Park."
And don't forget a ball cap, beanie, and sunglasses!!
PS, this isn’t hiking related, but I’m also glad I packed this swimsuit and loungewear from Aerie for spa/cozy time after hiking! I wore them a ton throughout the trip and am still living in the oversized sweatshirts, they’re so soft. The blue puffer in this photo is my fave from Dudley Stephens — it was too heavy for hiking in “summer” but perfect for everyday use.
What to Cook began in December 2020, which means there are more than 200 recipes in the archives. To help you cook through them, let’s revisit what we cooked this week over the last few years.
the ultimate easy-but-fancy spring menu, 2024
I’ll be sending a new easy-but-fancy spring entertaining (aka Easter, if you celebrate Easter!!) menu in the next few weeks, but if you need one in the meantime, here you go! This post includes recipes for:
salty minty dogs
rosemary pecans
Gruyère and black honey biscuits with hot honey butter
lamb and potatoes with a minty rosemary sauce
a springy salad
balsamic butter asparagus
As with all of my easy-but-fancy menus, I wrote out a plan of attack to help you plan and execute cooking this impressive meal with zero stress!
rotisserie-ish chicken with schmaltzy frizzled cabbage, 2023
If the thought of cooking a whole chicken still intimidates you — or if cabbage doesn’t excite you — listen to K and Jill!
cheesy chicken and veggie enchilada skillet, 2022
If you’re currently craving comfort food, cook this! You get all the deliciousness of enchiladas with a fraction of the effort (plus with a ton of vegetables).
pork chops with creamed corn and kale, 2021
Have you ever cooked pork chops? If not, here’s your invitation. They taste a bit like if you cooked a chicken breast in bacon fat — the meat is lean like chicken, but with so much more flavor. In this recipe we pair them with lightened-up creamed corn and tangy sautéed kale, two sides you could pair with any other protein — like simple grilled chicken or shrimp as soon as grilling season begins.
I’m in my “plop” vacation era. But can’t wait to take the kids to Scandinavia area in Europe when they are older
Travel bucket list: always and forever Italy - I’ll never tire of it; Rwanda to see the mountain gorillas has been a decades-long dream trip; Prague, London and Japan - I think I need to see Kyoto and other wonders there! And yes, African safari with my adult children would be a joy we didn’t get to do in their youth teens, At 62, I better get cracking!😊